I was right on both counts.
Author and medium Kala Ambrose writes in friendly, entertaining voice. Her research on the sites and legends she discusses is impeccable, relying not only on first-person experience but also on primary source research (there is a bibliography at the end of the book). As a result, Ambrose's look at a city she clearly loves is lively and informative.
At the end of each chapter, there are travel notes and recommendations for those who wish to see a particular place themselves.